Monday, 17 February 2020

Vientiane 16/2 & 17/2

Yesterday, Sunday, we decided to visit COPE.  This was not a high priority for me because I knew it would be disturbing but the write up promised that once you had been told the grim reality the positive achievements of current work compensated. COPE stands for Cooperative Orthotic&Prosthetic Enterprise and the visitor's centre is located at the Rehabilitation Hospital. The work here is to provide mobility supports and artificial limbs to people injured by the cluster bombs which remained in Laos after the Vietnam War.
The bombs were dropped on Laos because the North Vietnamese were using the southern border area for the Ho Chi Minh Trail to move troups and equipment. There was also a large area of Northern Laos bombed for "political reasons". Ie. The Pathet Laos were in control and were "communist". In all 260 million cluster bombs were dropped, each one containing 680 "bombies" with a 30metre radius of destruction. 30% did not explode upon landing leaving 80 million unexploded devices scattered through rural communities. Because they were often buried in the soil and didn't explode until hit by a farming implement or had a fire built near them civilian injuries have been high. Also the scavenging of war metal debris was lucrative to impoverished communities and the consequences sometimes destructive. In recent years support from overseas agencies has increased the efficiency of finding and exploding the remaining devices and it is hoped that they will be eliminated by 2021.
Meanwhile COPE has developed local clinics to identify those needing limbs  or other support and have trained local technicians in the manufacture and fitting of artificial limbs. They have also developed a pro active program for treatment of " club foot". It was positive to read about the work being done but I still found it disturbing.
Today we hired a car and driver and went 60 kms out into the countryside to visit the Lao Zoo. This is really now the Laos Wildlife Recovery Centre where mainly native animals are housed because they are threatened or have been rescued from captivity. It is a much cooler day today and although the facilities didn't exactly come up to the standard of the Perth Zoo the animals were obviously well cared for. We enjoyed a leisurely walk around, learnt a bit about the native animals and were impressed by the efforts of the staff. We were intrigued to find an emu comfortably cohabiting with some native deer.
On the was home we stopped for lunch at a riverside restaurant complex. It was very pleasant but we forgot that they would be used to catering for foreigners with no tolerance for chilli. When we said "not spicy" it came out very bland. Won't make that mistake again at an obvious tourist spot.
Tomorrow is our last day in Vientiane an we have yet to work out what we will do. Photos following.

Saturday, 15 February 2020

More Photos; The Great Supa

 Statue of Settathirat in the foregrand of the Great Stupa
The Stupa with the surrounding cloister and entrance in the foreground. The Stupa was built by the King in the 16TH C, razed by the Siamese, restored by the French in 1930's and renovated in 1918. It symbolises Lao nationhood as well as  having religious symbolism.
These are the  most ferocious dragons I have seen so far.

Photos Vientiane Day 2

 Wat Si Muang
 People are sitting with the monk in order to be blessed. On the RHS rear a woman is shaking sticks from a box in some sort of good luck ritual.


In the next chamber of this temple, centre stage is the city pillar,, draped in white cloth.This was installed here when the King moved the Capital to Vientiane in 1563. It is surroumded by Buddha statues and people bring the offerings to the city spirit.
Here an old man is pouring water around the "boss" of this drum for good fortune. The water in being collected as it runs off the drum and family members were bottling it. He was very particular about how it was done.

VIENTIANE Day 2

Today was forecast to be 36C ; acknowledged as unusually hot for this time of year. We decided to breakfast at the hotel and then set off early for the two temples that we rated to be our last such visits.  The first, Wat Si Muang houses the city pillar which was placed here by King Setthathirat in 1563 when he moved the Capital from Luang Prabang to Vientiane. Today the temple is a favourite with locals who go to obtain blessings from the monks. We were told Saturday could be very busy but found it very relaxed and interesting. I will attach photos separately.
From there we took a tuk tuk actross to the Great Stupa which is a monument to Buddha rather than a temple. It is surrounded by a cloister in which ancient artifacts are displayed and we could stroll in shaded comfort. As usual we learnt a bit more about styles of Buddha as there were some 17th C bronze statues which had survived intact from various destructive invasions. The most damaging one was by the Siamese in 1828 and perhaps explains the  some of the tension with Thailand today.  At both these sites there is evidence of Khmer construction as far back as the 12th C.  The Stupa  is impressive  in it's own right at 45 metres high , renovated in 2018 and coated in gold paint.
We tuk tuked to a nearby shopping centre which offered mostly garments for locals or tourist items from the Hill Tribes area. We didn't do any buying because we will be going closer to the Hill Tribes areas at Luang Prabang. It did have a good food hall and we had traditional style chicken and noodle soup which was delicious.
This afternoon was pretty relaxed with some local domestic shopping. We are just now researching ideas for tomorrow. So more to follow. Photos to follow.

Friday, 14 February 2020

More photos from Vientiane

 Elephant at the Temple Gates.
 Valentine donut fot breakfast.
Dragons guarding the temple building

Photos from Vientiane Day 1

 Guard at gates of a Temple
 Tower at Temple complex which houses huge traditional drums.
 National Museum building on RHSnow closed for renovation. Traditional family multistory home set against modern buildings in the background.
Staff decoration of our room for Valetines Day

2020: Vientiane,Laos

14 Feb. Today is our second day here and is much more relaxed than yesterday. We landed at the airport at 11.15 yesterday but then had a long queue at Immigration. We were checked into our hotel by 12md and were pleased that it is just as new and comfortable as advertised.  We then set off on a walk to orient ourselves and find some lunch before testing out the bed with an afternoon nap.
Finding some essential supplies such as plenty of bottled water and fresh milk was made more complicated because we also needed tea and coffee having left both supplies at home somehow. Along the way we learned that the Lao people drink mainly  varients of green tea or coffee. After a lengthy and hot route march around the central  area I left Bob to it and retreated to the airconditioning. He was fixed on finding not only black tea but also a phone sim so he can link into the Lao phone system. He returned with black tea and a clear idea of where to go today for his sim.
This morning we set off in the cool to have breakfast at a bakery which is reputed to be the best and is also committed to fair trade and supporting local communities. The breakfast was delicious and we were given a complimentry donut with our coffee - pink icing and hearts on it. We will be going back. It was interesting how much more attractive the city looked in the cool of the morning when we were strolling along with time to look at the scenery and a sense that we knew more or less where we were going.
On our way back we did a bit of shopping and found the Lao Telecom customer service office for the sim. Elise and Ingrid will be amazed to know that  Bob bought a pair of shoes. Lunch was delicious stirfry accompanied by mango and banana smoothies. I am sure I will be able to find that cafe again.
After our usual post lunch nap we took a tuk tuk out to a small Wat on the outskirts of the city. It is described as the "Forest Wat" and I thought it would be cooler than some of the more exposed memorials in the city area.  We did enjoy the peace and being there while the monks were participating in their evening chant which echo-ed around the whole complex. Unfortunately it was peak hour by the time our hour was up so our tuk tuk driver failed to reappear. He obviously had closer opportunities. It took us half an hour cooling our heals to hale another one. They were a bit scarce out there at that time.
We have discovered that the trip out to the National Protected Area is not as attractive because the Chinese have built a dam on the river and the water tour section has been cancelled. The tour operator indicated that he thought we would have more interesting options at Luang Prabang.  He also said he thought we would find the coach trip to Luang Prabang worthwhile and that he always encouraged people to go by land rather than fly. We have booked our seats for next Wednesday so feel quite organised.
When we returned to our room after the cleaner had been we found that we not only had our towels artfully arranged but a red rose on the bed as well. Some of the Lao are really into this Valentine thing. I will load photos separately.