Battembang and home

Battembang proved to be a much quieter town than Siem Reap or Phnom Penh. We had a couple of delicious meals there following up on Lonely Planets recommendations. The two recommended activities were well worth while also. In the morning we took a Tuk Tuk out to the "station" for the bamboo railway. This was initially built to transport rice from the paddy fields into town and link with the line into Phnom Penh. It is probably still used to transport the rice as the line passes through acres of rice paddy. The "train" is a series of independent "carriages" which are a rectanguler platform about 5 feet by 10 feet made of a steel frame filled in with wooden slats and covered with bamboo matting. This rests on a front and rear bogie and is powered by a simple 6 hp motor. It chuggs along the line with much clicking and jouncing because the line is not welded at the joins; the two lengths just abutt each other. Time and heat has also caused some interesting warping of the rails. The interesting part came when we were going up the track and met a number of carriages coming back with earlier birds than us on board. Protocol demands that the carriages returning have right of way so our driver informed us that we must get off. He and another driver then lifted our platform off the boggies and laid it beside the track. The fan belt of the motor was disconnected and the bogies were similarly lifted off the track. The returning carriages then trundled on and our carriage and others waiting were reassembled and proceeded to the end of the line. There we spent 10 mi utes perusing the goods on offer at a small market. The most entertaing thing though was watching three  young children crouching around a block of ice which had been brought up for the ice boxes of cold drinks. They had a lot of fun licking the ice as if it was a huge icy pole until an interfering adult took it to serve the intended purpose. Bob took a great photo of them.
That evening we went to a circus performance by the music, dance and gymnastic students at a nearby college. This was very professional and unsurprisingly the young students are about to undertake a  performing tour of France. There was a story linking all the performances which touched on the trauma and recovery from the Pol Pot regime but there was clever use of humour and technology to bring it all together. Afterwards we went to a local French restaurant for a very delicious dinner at an incredibly low cost.
Then it was the 6 hour bus trip back to Phnom Penh and dinner with Jenny and Wayne. Clinton and Michaela also arrived that evening . The next and last day in Cambodia was taken up with last minute trips to the markets and packing. We then over nighted in Bangkok and went to the Sunday Chatachuk Markets.
Now we are back in Perth and will be going home to Walpole tomorrow. It has been a great holiday and fulfilled all our expectations.
Caio for the last time. Gail and Bob.

Photos along the river

Here are some photos taken with my tablet. I hope they give some impression. The sun made it difficult to see what the focus was. G

Down River to Battembang

Well we are the lucky couple. After deciding to do the river trip from Siem Reap to Battembang and purchasing the tickets we read the Trip Advisor reviews of the experience. Many were scathing but most said that although it was an uncomfortavle and long trip it was worth doing but not worth repeating. We had previously gained a  few hints so I had prepared by buying a couple of garishly coloured cushions at the market  and ordering a "picnic" lunch from the hotel.
Our travel agent had told us we would be collected from the hotel between 6am and 6-30am so we ate breakfast quickly in anticipation that we might be summoned to leave. 6-30 and then 6-45 arrived so the hotel staff said they would phone for us. Back came the message that our pick up time was 7am and it was on the ticket. Sure enough written on the butt was 7-00. So we waited. At 7-30 the staff phoned again to be told the pickup was near. Sure enough  at 7-35  a tuk tuk arrived. This was a specialised one. The motor bike towed a tray back similar to a ute tray with bench seats , open sided but with the usual soft cover roof. We were the first aboard and our bags were stowed under the seats with back pack, cushions and lunch around our feet. We knew what was coming!
Next stop was two French women with enormous soft packs, after that the next stop were a no show. Bob had peered at the drivers list and he was supposed to collect 12 people. The feat would have been the act of a conjurer. Our last stop was for two young Germans whose medium size packs and them just squeezed in.
We arrived at the boat dock and our French companions were directed to a large enclosed ferry going to Phnom Penh. Thank goodness fate has decreed that we did not do that trip last year.
We were ushered around the big ferry to a smaller open sided boat with cushioned bench seats and only 5 other passenger, all young Germans. None of us could believe our luck when without further delay out boat departed. We spread out and prepared to enjoy the trip. The entry to the Tonle Sap Lake was via passage ways through the fresh water mangroves and full of bird life. The lake itself is enormous  as it is almost the end of the wet  season and it was easy to see how it could reverse the flow of the river down to the Mekong. In the dry season the Mekong is dominant and the water flows into the Lake. As we crossed the lake  we caught up to a larger smarter looking boat that was full to the gunnels with people.  It was then we realised that we were the overflow customers and really settled in to enjoy the ride. The young Germans were chatty and eager to practice their English in between naps as they sprawled along the seats.
We collected one local passenger and a container of live fish rather than the horror stories of crowds of locals with chickens and many parcels. The fishing villages along the river or floating on the lake were frequent and intriguing. The big boats aren't exactly welcome due to the wash they create but our skipper was thoughtful when we were going through villages or passing other boats in the narrow passages. We stopped for lunch after three hours and the meal of rice and stir fry looked quite appetising. However the larger boat caught up to us just as we were due to leave and there was no way all those passengers could have been served with more than a drink so I was glad of our packed lunch.
The trip took from 8-30 till 2pm which was much quicker than some predictions. And we loved it though the lack of a decent back rest meant I was a bit stiff despite my cushion.
Our hotel is very comfortable, even luxurious for $45 US per night but the restaurants around town seem very Asian basic on our walk around last night. We eventually found one of the Lonely Planet recommendations and the food was delicious.
More later, hopefully some of my photos are fit to post on a separate blog. Gail

Cambodia Part Two

I have had to wrest the blog back from Bob because he was spilling too many secrets. On Sunday we had a great day out on the Mekong. Jenny arranged a cruise up to a floating village and to a silk village on solid land. The boat was a traditional high sided wooden craft capable of seating about 20 but we were the only passengers. The water was calm, we had shade, cold drinks and comfortable seats. At the floating village I started to feel embarrassed that we were intruding when we pulled right up to one of the houses. Then the captain explained that it was his house and in about 30 seconds a large block of ice was passed to the mate and we were off again.
At the silk village we walked up to a particular house and were welcomed as old friends by the two young women who operate the business. Jenny has taken about 7 groups of Aussies there and has become great friends with the family so you can understand the welcome was for her.
We first went for a walk around the village to the temple which is beautifully decorated. There we saw some of the long boats used in the water festival and Bob and Wayne inspected them closely to try to work out how they are constructed. Apparently it takes about 100 villagers to roll them down to the river for launching.
The rice paddies and the lake are just past the temple and there we found three buffalo tethered. Their horns are rather intimidating so we approached cautiously for photos. Just as we were leaving two young boys who looked about 5 and 7 years strolled up, untethered them and climbed aboard for the ride home.
Lunch was chicken and fish cooked in the traditional Khermer way and we were introduced to several new flavours. Apart from rice we had steamed morning glory vine, grated green mango with the fish, green mango with salt and chilli pepper for afters. This was as well as bananas, oranges and slices of a fruit which has no translateable name and which leaves your mouth feeling slightly swollen, furry and a bit numb. It was all tasty and we all ate too much.
It was shopping time after lunch and Jenny and I had a great time although space in my case dictated purchases rather than price. Bob couldn't resist a nice silk and cotton shirt though it might have been the sales woman rather than the product that tipped him into buying mode.
We were all rather somulent on the trip home.
Yesterday Bob and I caught the bus up to Siam Reap. This is a return trip for us but we wanted to spend a bit more time here. This morning we read up on options for activities and decided to go out to Preah Khan temple. This is an 11th century temple a bit further out than Angkor Wat and Angkor Thom that we visited last year.  We went early to avoid the heat and the crowds and it was a pleasant shady tuk tuk ride out there. The ruins have been partially restored by a  privately endowed American group who have trained local people to continue the work. The original settlement was huge but isn't likely to be restored in the immediate future. The temple complex was built to celebrate a successful battle and the history is known because a stele was found inscribed with the story in Sanscrit. We enjoyed walking around the complex which still has a lot of engraving visible and has an interesting construction with a huge passage through an east-west alighment and a shorter one going north -south. There are four gates with suitable guard houses and awesome figures carved into the sandstone for protection. There was also a firehouse to provide access to fire for the villagers and residents of the temple.
Tomorrow we take the boat from here down river to Battambong and from what we hear that is likely to be an adventure.
Ciao, Gail

Cambodia

Hello from beautiful Phnom Penh.
Once again Gail is permitting me the task of reporting at least initially. You see she is so busy having hair, nails and beauty treatment under way.
We got here a little late from Rome then Bangkok because the flight here had no one to load the baggage in Bangkok,!!! But arrived safely into temperatures that were a bit of a shock. Got to our hotel very early but got a room, freshened up and went to see Jenny and Wayne Burton.
Since then it's been all go. We have been lucky enough to arrive during the Cambodian water festival which is an annual event but which has not been held for 4years due to various reasons. J and W took us down to the Mekong river front where it was taking place in the late afternoon.  They had discovered earlier that the authorities had provided tourist visitors with their own ringside viewing area which was very handy because All 2.5 million Cambodian's were looking from the same area. All very noisy, musical, with many selling what they could. I could have been weighed and measured at least a hundred times and fed goodness knows what. But all amazingly good natured. May have been helped by the troops in black and their sub machine guns!!.Not so really as the public were having a really good time, possibly because it is free and great entertainment.    
Some 200 long boats were competing each with it seemed like a hundred rowers in all colours when we arrived. Later they had a light display with numerous barges with towers and electrics that would require many kva generators to run, but they were extraordinarily detailed and very beautiful. Gail took lots of photos but regretfully my camera was back at camp.  Following all that was a fireworks display that rivalled the thunderstorms going on in the background. Our tent etc was only about 50 meters from the royal tent and vip area so we were indeed privileged.
We then retreated back to one of W&J favorite restaurants where we went when here last year. Again the food was great and ditto the next night at another. They also took us to a number of markets including a very new swish Japanese owned one. Today we travelled to the Russian market which was an experience as it is cramped, under cover with cooking and shops all together. Temp was about 39c and as humid as.
Later Gail said she wanted to see the Royal palace as we missed it last year, but on the way also wanted to visit a particular shop. We did so and Gail shopped!!! Then missed seeing the palace as it was time to catch up with Wayne and Jenny again because haircuts, nails were on the agenda. Apparently Wayne gets a shave, has nails done,  both fingers and toes,  regularly when he gets  a shave, but I,m sworn to secrecy on that so don't tell anyone will you.
I would hate to embarrass him!
Anyway I had a haircut and my nails done, which I found very embarrassing as it was a first and likely last for me, especially with toes like mine. I consoled myself in the knowledge that I was giving a beautiful young lady work and helping the economy. The cost however was amazing at$6US and tip for the lot. Wayne said I should have my hair washed as well but I drew the line at that, though he obviously has it done regularly. ?..whoops another secret so don't tell will you.
Right now the hotel staff are fogging to destroy the mossies outside our room and I neglected to turn the air conditioning off and I can tell you with total certainty no mosquito will survive and I give myself a 50/50 chance!!
I will publish this now because if either Gail or Wayne see it I will suffer the same fate as the mossies. After the event I can seek forgiveness as its easier than getting permission. No doubt Gail will will correct the record when she gets home from the chamber of eternal youth.  More later.
Bob

Athens

Well Gail has finally let me talk.  In reality she has caught cold and doesn't want to blog just now . But be assured she is ok. She is just now enjoying her G&T. So to continue.  We drove down to Athens through lots of beautiful country and even tho the tablet gps only worked now and then got the Fiat back to the airport without crashing anyone. It registered 2100+ks by us so we got value.
Caught the suburban train into Athens and went looking for the hotel. Luckily gps worked right until the locality but it was in the middle of the Athens vegetable market. After circling around we found it right in front of us,  even with vege transfers on the door.  When inside and on the 5th floor we found a great room overlooking said vegetable market.  The hotel is the Athens central square hotel and is really good quality and value. Even tho the markets start about 4am we were not disturbed . others on lower floors weren't so happy.
Athens was all we experienced before and more. It is still relativey smog free and easy to walk wherever.  We enjoyed again the ancient sites and modern food.  The hotel was
great in recommending good restaurants but we found one evening that it could not be found. But next day we pre scouted and found our targets.
On Sunday we found the Parliament building and tomb of the unknown soldier just before the changing of the Greek guards . The performance was better than Buckingham Palace and I have photos. Indeed many photos to prove it.
Of course we visited the Acropolis etc etc and etc again and we're impressed by the ongoing restorations.  If anything we enjoyed it more perhaps than last time when it was just amazing to be there.
We found the hotel we stayed in last time in the Plaka but it was in a more ruinous state than those 2000 years older. But again the salad, the tzsatitsiki and kebabs, fish and souvlaki were just supurb. As well we tried lots of local wines, usually the house wines and found them good but quite different from home.
The flight back to Rome was good, even tho we were on easyJet a discount carrier who charge for almost every extra. I was almost expecting to pay for the loo,!,, But we had lots of room as the Greek police grabbed about 10 passengers as we were boarding.  Gail tried to get them to hold me but was unsuccessful.
Back here we got to our booked hotel around seven pm. Found it was one of those which just had a small sign among others so were glad we had the exact address. Were then met by a Chinese man who said we were in a different hotel...Proceeded about 2 blocks away to where we are now. It turns out we are now in a 3 star rather than a 2 star but still extremely close to the Rome main station so we have an easy run to the airport and it's great accommodation. It's all quite new, it all works and we are very comfortable but it's fascinating because even tho all good there are Chinese characteristics like some I found on Christmas Island, superb fittings but. eg maps in the kitchen draws, However if we return we would be happy to stay again. Outside is a bit sad as lots of African refs around but still safe.
More later.
Bob