Cut Bank Montana 1st Sept

The town of Cut Bank is as boring as it's name. It is named for the cutting the river has made in the high plain and is essentially a railway and mining industry hub. When Bob was chatting to the nice volunteer woman at the Conrad Visitor Centre she asked "why are you staying in Cut Bank"?  He didn't tell her that the fact that it is 48 miles from Glacier Park and it's motel prices weren't inflated by Park proximity was the reason. We understood the sentiment when we arrived. We understood it even more when we went looking for dinner last night. Bob researched Google to check the reputation of the local restaurants to find that there was only one functioning which fortunately had good reviews. As the motel is typically on the outskirts of town we set off for our usual mile walk to the centre only to discover a notice advising that the restaurant was closed for the whole of the Labor Day weekend holiday. Mumbling horribly we walked back through a pleasantly cool evening to consult with the motel proprietor. He directed us to the supermarket on the other side of town. This time we drove and managed to purchase very tasty chicken teriaki and salads which we ate in our room.
To  back track the drive to Cut Bank was interesting even though it was once again across undulating plain country. There were a few lakes which we took to be fed by snow melt from mountains that were a hazy blur through the smoke on the horizon. The huge paddocks we drove through were alternating bright golden and dull beige stubble. There were small collections of deer making the most of the stubble and occasional Black Angus herds. When we arrived at Fairfield enroute we were able to identify the stubble because the town proudly announced it was the malting barley capital of the world. During a walk around town I noticed an ad which stated that Coors Beer is made from barley grown here.
The next town Conrad seemed to be suffering from the diminishing small town syndrome but it had a delightful rest stop area where the historic old town was preserved and and contained some functioning shops. Sadly the icecram parlour was not open till later in the day but I bought myself two pretty but functional pot holders at the craft shop. I then met the woman  who had made them when we had further conversation with the Visitor Centre volunteer and her friend in the car park. Friend was very chuffed that I admired and had bought something that she had made. They also informed us that the dinosaur "field" that Conrad promoted was actually near the next tiny town we would drive through. They claim the largest dinosaur skeleton ever assembled and the only baby dinosaur skeletons discovered. However Bob had obviously had enough of stopping by then and we drove straight past.  We also noticed some operating oil wells as we approached the town. This is something that is sprinkled throughout the mountain  foothills where ever we have been driving. Our early arrival at Cut Bank allowed some routine supermarket shopping and a "nanna  nap" which in my case means a chance to relax and read my book.

Conrad Village.

Blackfoot house - not called a teepe as that is a Souix name but something else unpronouncable. Built in collaboration with the school which is what the sign board that I couldn't avoid says. We have read historic sign boards along the way which explain that the plains we are driving across were the terrain  of the huge herds of bison which sustained the Blackfoot tribe and many other of the nomadic Indian tribes.

Travelling to Great Falls Montana Thurs 31/8

Yesterday we were following a river valley across the high plains again. The valley was lush for the first part of the morning. There were herds of Black Angus and quite a lot of horses to admire. As we progressed the countryside became tougher. When Bob registered the title of the minor hightway we were following, "The Sage Brush Hway" we realised that the vegetation that resembles salt bush is Sage Brush.
We gradually rose higher and travelled over a pass. The down slope was long and steep. Part way down we saw a push bike rider who was on his way up resting beside the road. He looked very hot and we wondered if he had realised what a tough road he had chosen when he set out. We have been amazed at the number of bike riders we have seen on these really tough mountain roads.
Interestingly as we drove rest we saw some of the Black Angus dominance give way to herds of red cattle.  The west side of the mountain was forested and the road wound through pines and small ski towns with pretty log cabins.
During our drive north west the smoke in the atmosphere increased. Talking to locals in Great Falls we found that there are ten major fires that have broken out in recent days and are causing havoc.  As far as we can determine Glacier NP , our destination tomorrow is not affected but we will check with the National Parks service shortly.
We arrived here early in the afternoon and spent some hours at the Walk In Clinic  at the hospital while the very efficient staff checked out some pain in my chest. This had developed during the previous 24 hours and it hurt when I breathed. After some very anxious hours when the doctor seemed convinced that I had a pulmonary embolis attributed as he nicely said to our travel pattern and my "number of birthdays" the final test proved conclusively that I did not. Relieved but exausted we retired to our very comfortable motel for a "take out" meal and a good nights sleep. The pain, whatever it was is all but gone this morning thank goodness.
Bob has started writng about our travels on Facebook and it is fascinating how the things that we remember to record have a different focus

for each of us.  Photo of a statue honouring the Frontiers Men who worked as guides and escorts for early travellers in the area.  Named Thunder Jack by the local grade one primary school class.

Photos of Bear Claw

The Bear Claw

They are big animals.

Yellowstone to Billings Montana

We thoroughly enjoyed Yellowstone and the drive North East out of the Park toward Billings today was interesting. We were back into the high country of the Park but there were still geyser fields in a couple of places. At one point we had to stop the car while  a small herd of Bison crossed the road in front of us. The larger males went across first and then one huge male just stood in the road, quite close to the cars and waited until the females and calves were safely across.
Then he strolled off. We saw more Bison today up in the high valleys than all the rest of our travels around the Park. We also saw an antelope and what Bob believes was a white fox. I am not convinced it was a fox but he didn't stick around long enough for me to ask him.
From there we took the Bear Claw Highway to Red Lodge, a ski resort town. I had read that the Bear Claw was not to be missed and it definately was the icing on the cake. I am saving the cherry on top for Glacier NP if it lives up to it's reputation.
The Bear Claw is a very sharply pointed mountain near the road. Interesting in itself. However the road is amazing. We were up above the snow line at the Pass which is 10,947 feet. Below were glacier carved valleys and alpine lakes of great beauy. Fortunately the road has been recently  re hotmixed and was in excellant condition. Just as well because the drop off from immmediately beside the road was straight down. It took us quite a while to do the 60 miles to Red Lodge partly because it was essential to drive slowly and partly because we kept pulling into laybys to take photographs. By the time we reached Red Lodge we were starving (2pm) so we went to a cafe for lunch. Had yummy home made tomato soup and a sandwich. Very reasonable despite this being a skiresort/tourist town. That kept us going until we
arrived in Billings.

Photos at Yellowstone , 29/8

Upper Falls of Yellowstone River.

Grand Pa Bison taking a break. I used the zoom to take this shot from the car. We are warned not to go closer than 25 meters. We aren't supposed to stop to take photos but every one was doing it.

 

Volcano Geyser.

Grand Canyon of Yellowstone. The mist in the foreground is spray from the water fall.

Yellowstone Tues 29/8

Today we had a great day driving around the central road circuit of Yellowstone. We had been warned that it would get busy early. However getting out of bed before we have had a cup of tea  just doesn't work. Then we had to have our cereal, fruit and yogurt out on this fantastic  upper story verandah. So it was 9am before we had rubber to the bitumen. Never the less we were out overlooking the Yellowstone Grand Canyon before the crowd filled the car park. We walked down 3/4 mile decending 600 feet to photograph the Upper Falls of the Gibbon River as it descends through the Canyon. It was truly worth the climb back up. Either we have become more aclimatised or the graduated path  made it easier.We went from there to further around the South Rim where the walk is reported to give spectacular views. Unfortunately this was where ambition met reality. There was one car park closed for reconstruction work and the other one was grid locked with drivers looking for a space. We did one circuit, realised the walk was closed for the construction work anyway and called retreat. We then went around to the North Rim of the Canyon where we repeated the climb down, this time to the lower falls of the river. The views were unimaginable to us flat land people where rivers flow rather than roar. There  is still ice on the glaciers on the highest peaks so the river was effectively in flood. The Canyon is narrow so the pressure of water over the falls was spectacular. My photos won't do it justice but I will post them anyway.
From there we meandered our way around, found a herd of Bison grazing and I struggled heroically out into a sudden onset of wind and rain to photograph them for you. Found a spot to eat our lunch and were swooped by a small bird with Magpie - like behaviours who wanted to share.
We then took the road home around the rest of the circuit and discovered just how variable geysers can be. Yesterday Bob commented "seen one geyser, seen them all",
Today demonstrated just how different they can be. We saw mud geysers, boiling water geysers, volcano geysers,( this one erupted just as we reached the boardwalk), and a Dragons Breath geyser which huffed steam from the mouth of a cave. On our way home we took a couple of minor side roads around geyser basins and along a minor canyon. It rounded of an excellant day. Photos separately.

Jackson to Yellowstone. Mon 28/8

We cruised north through the Grand Tetons National Park. Stopped to photograph a herd of Bison conveniently crowded near a ranch fence. Along with nearly every other car going past. We then stopped into at a lakeside village on Jackson Lake which is a deep glacier carved lake which has had it's size increased by a reservoir wall to allow irrigation water for Idaho which is next door. Stocked up on lunch supplies at the store which was typically quite well stocked and without significant mark up on prices.
When we reached the south entrance to Yellowstone we slowed to a crawl for a while. The entry process took each  car a couple of minutes and then there was quite a delay to get through some road works .They are laying down new hotmix in preparation for winter. The traffic finally sped up and we took the risk to stop off at a waterfall which plunged down a narrow chasm. It was a worthwhile move but we then continued on until we reached  the Old Faithful car park. Because this is the largest geyser "field"  of the Park the car park is huge. Never the less it was pretty full. We slipped into the back because we knew this was where the picnic tables were. After lunch we set off to explore. We aarrived at the boardwalk for Old Faithfull  ( here after   referred to as OF) to find that we had just missed an eruption. There are boardwalks and pathways around and through what is essentially the throat of a volcano. It was a bit unsettling to realise that you are walking over an area which is bubbling and steaming because of what is just below your feet. This was especially brought home when we heard a ranger explaining that the area experiences between 2000 -3000 earthquakes per year. The crowds walking around were as nonchalant as I tried to be,  it really is a most amzing place. We then decided to remove ourselves up to an observation place overlooking the whole of the field. This was supposedly a half mile while ascending 200 feet. However I am sure it was a higher climb than that. When we made it to the top the view was worth while. People nearby gave us various estimates of how

long the gap was between OF's eruptions. We fnally waited 45 minutes by which time i was figetting. We did see two minor geysers perform during the wait. Also Bob was playing around with the camera on his tablet and worked out hoe to use the zoom. Since I hadn't realised my camera could also zoom I regret my photo of the deer and the bison. It does mean I did get some decent shots of OF which was worth waiting for.
We then drove out of the Park to West Yellowstone to our accommodation. West Yellowstone exists for tourists of course and as the oldest National Park and the most popular it has lots of accomodation. When we were looking on the net I found the Maddison Hotel which is on the National Historic register. It is built in the log cabin tradition and is the only building that survived an early fire in the town. The timber is amazing. I will send photos in the next blog when we have taken some. We booked it because it was affordable due to the historic part of the building having shared bathrooms rather than ensuires but we have no regrets. Our room is comfortable and quite unique as is the the rest of the building.
Today we are off to explore more of Yellowstone.