SaPa April 3/4

The Night Train to Sa Pa turned out to be only slightly more comfortable than our experience 5 years ago despite paying for a supposedly more up market company. However the mattresses were thicker and it was cleaner and more organised on King's Express. The train still rattled and shook and it took a while to unwind after a long day in Hanoi but we eventually slept until woken for the approach to the end of the line at Lo Cai. As arranged we then travelled by mini bus the 35 kms up the mountains to SaPa. The road was quite busy even at 5-30 am but the driver knew his road and when he could risk overtaking on the winding road. The huge trucks grinding their was up the hill gave us some warning of the development occurring in SaPa.

My first impression was of construction everywhere on the approach to the City. And it is a city now not the town we visted previously. Our hotel was very well organised. Even though we could not check in till 1-00pm by our arrangement we could breakfast, shower and then go on a short treck until check in time. They are set up for all this for the travellers  arriving by train and taking the longer two to three day treks.

The anticipated downhill walk turned out to be a bit tougher than we expected with a steep uphill finish and we were all hot and looking forward to our lunch stop at the finish. Fortunately the scenery made to effort worthwhile and our lunch was a delicious noodle soup with coconut juice from the fruit itself  and Nashi's for desert. The mini bus ride up the hill to the hotel was a welcome and essential finish. Our trekking companions, a family from Belgium, a woman from Colorado teaching English in China and a young Turkish man certainly eased us over the final stretch with lively conversation. 

Our hotel certainly offers the Panorama promised but it was obliterated by cloud when we checked in. We didn't care at that point as a catch up sleep was high on our agenda. We all recovered well and after researching the Lonely Planet bible went out for a stroll around town and a delicious dinner. We have learnt to order from the Local Specialties section of the menu if possible and it was well worthwhile last night. One plus from the growth is the restaurant choice is now improved. The construction disruption is not as evident in the city centre but the school where we used to watch mothers collecting their children is now a heap of rubble. It would be nice to think it is going to be a new school but I suspect another hotel. Today will be a relaxed one with possibly a massage for tired limbs.