Saturday 11 October 2014

Napoli

Well just getting here was an experience. We were nice and early at the station so of course the train was late. When it was almost due we made our way down to the platform and Bob made a passing enquiry of a casually dressed but official looking young woman. She insisted on escorting us to the appropriate place and that we take a seat, positioning herself nearby. By then we had become suspicious and when she tried to carry Bob's case for him he firmly refused. I had 50 cents ready to tip her when she escorted us to our seats. She was not happy and demanded €2. We sent her on her way. Not so fortunate were two young women with large suitcases who had been assisted by a kindly gent. He demanded € 10 each for lifting their cases onto the overhead rack. They negotiated it down to €15 for the two before they realised that they had been scammed. They chased after him but to no avail.
I will leave Bob to tell you about the train.
Our B&B , recommended by both Trip Advisor and Booking.com  is on the edge of the historic centro and just as good as it was promised. We asked our landlady about Naples reputation for aggravation to tourists. She said that if I removed all my gold jewellery, including my watch we should have no trouble at all, even in the evening. It is all in the safe and we have not felt at all threatened. We found a wonderful delicatessen for lunch with panini made to order and all our other shopping such as tea, beer and milk catered for.
Last night we went to the Pizza restaurant recommended by our land lady and Lonely Planet. LP said to get there early and we arrived 20 minutes after opening and still had to queue for 20 minutes. It was highly entertaining and the wood fired pizzas tasted great. Very different to the ones at home and so huge that they drooped over the edge of the large dinner plate.
Bob can tell you about the train and Pompeii, which was every thing we expected . Now we are pooped after 5 hours of walking and scrambling. Gail
G,day.
The train was just over an hour from Rome to Naples.  We had a slow start so I thought it was just a local and it would be a bit boring.  Then it gradually sped up and 170 soon appeared. I tapped Gail to show her and it was already 200km. She was writing her diary and put in the speed.  But next it was 250 and we were surprised and she wrote it in the diary. Then as she finished it it went to 270,280,up to 300km. The track looked made of solid concrete as you could not see sleepers at all and to use an old description the power poles looked like a picket fence. Quite amazing and with less movement than the one into Perth from the northern line it was so stable.  Needless to say Gails diary has many alterations. We have traveled on fast trains before but of course the Italians did build the Ferrari! ,
Today to Pompeii. We walked, walked, walked.  The size of the city was amazing and even though lots of the site were closed for archeological digs etc it was easy to get around and comprehend the lifestyle of the locals, , well perhaps the rich.  It seems the others just had to get by. They also appear to have had a rather relaxed attitude to promiscuity. I will show the photo when we get home to anyone interested. ?.Not that bad!
The stunning thing for me were the plasters of the locals as the eruption happened.  Apparently the ash and small, very hot, stones that surrounded the bodies of people and animals solidified and created a cast.  So after they disintegrated a cavity was left and some clever archeological bloke got the idea to fill them with plaster of paris. The rest was then taken away and what was left was the outline of the person animal or other non mineral. One of the humans was clearly laying flat on his arms,hands under his face, obviously trying to get a breath in the suffocating steam and gasses. Worse,perhaps a dog on its back curled up in agony.  Amazing story of reality 2000 years ago.
But wait there's more. Naples did not exist then and now 3 million people live under Vesuvius, more Naples is just 6 miles away and the volcano has a history of unannounced eruptions, so I'm getting nervous because we will be in the locality for 4 more days . Of course I am a rational human who really does not expect Vesuvius to erupt again while we are here, but I cannot help thinking of good old Auralias Victro who had just arrived in Pompeii in 74 ad.
Seriously, Naples is a great city worth the visit and is not unsafe despite its reputation.

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