Wednesday 31 October 2018
Photos of the Museum displays.
Confluence Photos, Lyon
France: Lyon Tues 30/10
The rain had stopped by the time we walked out but it was still very cold. The plan for the morning was to visit the Confluence Natural History Museum. As it didn't open till 11am we caught the bus over to Republic to take a walk. This has UNESCO World Heritage listing as a streetscape. We had seen parts of it in our travels but now walked the length. There is a very ornate building we couldn't identify, the Theatre and the Town Hall. We didn't take photos because it was very cold and we have lots of photos of buildings. We then walked the short distance across the Peninsular to the Saone River Landing for the Vaporretto or ferry as we know it. Our timing was very lucky because it was just starting to dock as we reached the bridge. It only runs down river hourly so if we had missed it we would have been using some other transport. It was an enclosed ferry thank goodness because the wind was bitter but the scenery was worthwhile. There are lots of retired river boats moored along the river banks used as houses, restaurants and offices which we are told are very expensive accommodation.
When we arrived at the last landing stage we found we still had quite a walk to the Confluence and the Museum entry but there is some exotic architechture in this new area and it was along the river so we took some photos as we went.
Unfortunately there was a half hour queue standing in the cold to just get into the building because it is school holidays. If it had not been so highly recommended I think Bob would have walked away. Once inside we found the shorter credit card queue for tickets and headed for the display rooms. The building itself is a bit like the Sydney Opera House in that it is a lot of building for a relatively small purpose dedicated space. Never the less it is architecturally interesting. The display rooms are dedicated to displaying the evolution of Earth's life forms and cultures. This has been achieved by thoughtful selection of facets rather than the whole overwhelming story. There was quite a representation of Australian animals including a Tasmanian Tiger and lots of Aboriginal Art detailing dreamtime stories. We spent an hour and a half taking it in and then squeezed ourselves into a small space in the cafe to have baguettes for a late lunch. Afterwards we went up to make use of the outside viewing platforms because the SUN was shining. From there we took the steps and walkway down through the building and decided not to visit the temporary exhibition. We took our first tram ride back to the area around the Gallery Lafayette shopping complex and scoped out the nearby train station that we leave from on Saturday. It was a short walk home from there and time for a rest.
In the evening we walked the streets around our apartment searching for a restaurant that was not Asian. French restaurants are all closed for the season or seem to only operate for the traditional hot midday meal. We have been told by our guides that the French are work shy and it is only immigrants who really put in the hours. We have decided to take the bus into the central square in future where there is a concentration of restaurants which stay open for tourists. Our walking guide pointed out a side street where the meals are not over the top expensive. We did eventually find a Bar/ Brasserie near the Station and had an edible meal.
When we arrived at the last landing stage we found we still had quite a walk to the Confluence and the Museum entry but there is some exotic architechture in this new area and it was along the river so we took some photos as we went.
Unfortunately there was a half hour queue standing in the cold to just get into the building because it is school holidays. If it had not been so highly recommended I think Bob would have walked away. Once inside we found the shorter credit card queue for tickets and headed for the display rooms. The building itself is a bit like the Sydney Opera House in that it is a lot of building for a relatively small purpose dedicated space. Never the less it is architecturally interesting. The display rooms are dedicated to displaying the evolution of Earth's life forms and cultures. This has been achieved by thoughtful selection of facets rather than the whole overwhelming story. There was quite a representation of Australian animals including a Tasmanian Tiger and lots of Aboriginal Art detailing dreamtime stories. We spent an hour and a half taking it in and then squeezed ourselves into a small space in the cafe to have baguettes for a late lunch. Afterwards we went up to make use of the outside viewing platforms because the SUN was shining. From there we took the steps and walkway down through the building and decided not to visit the temporary exhibition. We took our first tram ride back to the area around the Gallery Lafayette shopping complex and scoped out the nearby train station that we leave from on Saturday. It was a short walk home from there and time for a rest.
In the evening we walked the streets around our apartment searching for a restaurant that was not Asian. French restaurants are all closed for the season or seem to only operate for the traditional hot midday meal. We have been told by our guides that the French are work shy and it is only immigrants who really put in the hours. We have decided to take the bus into the central square in future where there is a concentration of restaurants which stay open for tourists. Our walking guide pointed out a side street where the meals are not over the top expensive. We did eventually find a Bar/ Brasserie near the Station and had an edible meal.
Monday 29 October 2018
Photo Lyon
Frabce: Lyon Sun 28 and Mon 29/10
We have just had two moving days. Physical not emotional. Yesterday we had docked back in Lyon which was the end of the journey. We were required to vacate our "staterooms" by 8-30am but we did not have to vacate the ship until after lunch. The crew were busy preparing for the new passengers so along with the other laggards we went up to the lounge and emailed, read and chatted to other like bodies. The day was cold but the rain held off until just about when we were leaving the ship. Google has just told me that at 9 degrees C maximum today is four degrees warmer than yesterday. We were pleased to have a taxi ordered to tranfer us to the hotel we had booked for one night. This was a necessary decision we had made because the Air B&B we wanted wasn't available until this morning. The hotel Lyon Oeste (West) was further up the Saone than we realised so it was a good thing we weren't trying to go by public transport. The area has been an industrial area which has been revamped and is now quite trendy. The hotel is only six years old and still looks new. It was very comfortable and even had tea and coffee making facilities. We went for a walk after settling in and found the train/bus station and purchased public transport tickets. We scoped out a restaurant for dinner and found a square with a beautiful display of maple trees all with Autumn colours. I didn't have my camera and intended to go back this morning.
Unfortunately in was raining heavily this morning but we had to find a bank to withdraw cash and had a light breakfast at a boulangerie. By the time we arrived back our feet were soaked but the hotel had a heated towel rack which dried tights and socks quite quickly. We opted for a taxi to transfer to our B&B and arrived without any difficulty. We are here for 5 nights and the weather is supposed to ease tomorrow and be warmer from Wednesday onwards. We are a short bus ride from a major shopping area and the end of the route is in the Old Town if we want to go back there. We explored an undercover market which had the most amazing and expensive food imaginable. We enjoyed looking and then went down the road to have bagettes and panini's.
Our new apartment is on three levels though we won't use the second bedroom on the top floor. Bob has already hit his head twice coming down the spiral staircase and once on a projecting shelf. He has just returned from buying milk and other supplies and is about to make a cuppa.
I only took one photo this morning but will post it anyway. Till tomorrow.
Unfortunately in was raining heavily this morning but we had to find a bank to withdraw cash and had a light breakfast at a boulangerie. By the time we arrived back our feet were soaked but the hotel had a heated towel rack which dried tights and socks quite quickly. We opted for a taxi to transfer to our B&B and arrived without any difficulty. We are here for 5 nights and the weather is supposed to ease tomorrow and be warmer from Wednesday onwards. We are a short bus ride from a major shopping area and the end of the route is in the Old Town if we want to go back there. We explored an undercover market which had the most amazing and expensive food imaginable. We enjoyed looking and then went down the road to have bagettes and panini's.
Our new apartment is on three levels though we won't use the second bedroom on the top floor. Bob has already hit his head twice coming down the spiral staircase and once on a projecting shelf. He has just returned from buying milk and other supplies and is about to make a cuppa.
I only took one photo this morning but will post it anyway. Till tomorrow.
Sunday 28 October 2018
Photos from Beaume
France: Beaune 27/10
We had traveled upriver on the Saone to Macon overnight. This town was merely an access point for the excursion as it seemed to be fairly industrial. It used to be noted as the European base of Kodak but the plant closed in 2009. The day started with a coach ride for an hour and a half into the vineyards of Burgundy. Beaune is the capital for this wine area. It is a really pretty town and our guide Sophie who spoke excellent slightly accented English took us on a short orientation tour. We then had two hours free to spend in the town centre where there was a Saturday producers market and to buy our own lunch.
Fortunately Bob and I found a Boulangerie which had indoor seating as the day was very cold. The tights, new warm jumper, jacket and gloves in my collection came into use. Bob had a jumper and jacket on but wished he had worn both his jumpers as he felt cold all day.
After lunch we visited the Hotel Dieu, a hospice which was built in 1453 by a rich man in his 60's to provide care for the poor. The theory is that he was trying to ensure admission to heaven when he died. It is known that he and his wife were genuinely committed to the project and introduced some very innovative strategies. His wife was only in her 20's when she married this much older man because she was wife number three.
I was very disappointed as we walked into the Hotel because it was built of pale stone with a slate roof and very austere profile. I had seen photos of a marvellous verandahed brightly tiled building and thought my expectations had been misguided. However as I queried our guide and we walked through the administration area I was delighted to find the colourful building behind. This was a deliberate decision by the creaters to provide an inviting and bright environment for their patients. In those days you only went to hospital when all else failed and you expected to die. The interior was similarly draped with red curtains and the ceiling beams were dectorated to give the patients a bright environment. Small gargoyIes of local notables and a companion animal for each were mounted around the ceiling to entertain the patients as they reclined in their beds. I said there were innovative ideas and some were that all linens were burnt three times per year to dispose of disease. There were comode chairs behind screens where the waste dropped into flowing water under the floor to be carried away. This had to be discontinued when after some considerable years it was realised that this kept the hospice cleaner but spread disease down stream. The nuns did all the work including the cooking and cleaning and they eventually had their own dispensary. There were 31 beds but 62 patients. Yes , two to a bed, positioned sitting up facing the alter so they could participate in the mass. Men and women were in the same ward until about 100 years later when a new ward was created. There were a few private rooms for paying patients. 25 nuns at any one time cared for the patients and when the powers that be in the Order wanted to rotate the nuns steps were taken to prevent this. The owners believed that they needed continuity to ensure that their care methods could be maintained. They appealed to Rome and in an unprecedented move the Hospice had it's own Order of nuns created. This was only discontinued when the hospice (by then a hospital) was closed in the 1990's and restored as a museum. When the husband died his wife became a nun and worked in the hospice for the rest of her life. She lived to be 64. The Hotel was endowed with it's own Burgundy vineyards which still support the Hotel Museum but also three new hospitals and other good works.
We were back at the ship by 4pm and contrived another load of laundry. It was very social down there as others did the same. Dinner was the usual excellent standard and we has a lively conversation with a couple from Yorkshire about favourite authors. Early departure from our cabin on Sunday but we can stay on board for lunch before taking a taxi to our hotel.
Fortunately Bob and I found a Boulangerie which had indoor seating as the day was very cold. The tights, new warm jumper, jacket and gloves in my collection came into use. Bob had a jumper and jacket on but wished he had worn both his jumpers as he felt cold all day.
After lunch we visited the Hotel Dieu, a hospice which was built in 1453 by a rich man in his 60's to provide care for the poor. The theory is that he was trying to ensure admission to heaven when he died. It is known that he and his wife were genuinely committed to the project and introduced some very innovative strategies. His wife was only in her 20's when she married this much older man because she was wife number three.
I was very disappointed as we walked into the Hotel because it was built of pale stone with a slate roof and very austere profile. I had seen photos of a marvellous verandahed brightly tiled building and thought my expectations had been misguided. However as I queried our guide and we walked through the administration area I was delighted to find the colourful building behind. This was a deliberate decision by the creaters to provide an inviting and bright environment for their patients. In those days you only went to hospital when all else failed and you expected to die. The interior was similarly draped with red curtains and the ceiling beams were dectorated to give the patients a bright environment. Small gargoyIes of local notables and a companion animal for each were mounted around the ceiling to entertain the patients as they reclined in their beds. I said there were innovative ideas and some were that all linens were burnt three times per year to dispose of disease. There were comode chairs behind screens where the waste dropped into flowing water under the floor to be carried away. This had to be discontinued when after some considerable years it was realised that this kept the hospice cleaner but spread disease down stream. The nuns did all the work including the cooking and cleaning and they eventually had their own dispensary. There were 31 beds but 62 patients. Yes , two to a bed, positioned sitting up facing the alter so they could participate in the mass. Men and women were in the same ward until about 100 years later when a new ward was created. There were a few private rooms for paying patients. 25 nuns at any one time cared for the patients and when the powers that be in the Order wanted to rotate the nuns steps were taken to prevent this. The owners believed that they needed continuity to ensure that their care methods could be maintained. They appealed to Rome and in an unprecedented move the Hospice had it's own Order of nuns created. This was only discontinued when the hospice (by then a hospital) was closed in the 1990's and restored as a museum. When the husband died his wife became a nun and worked in the hospice for the rest of her life. She lived to be 64. The Hotel was endowed with it's own Burgundy vineyards which still support the Hotel Museum but also three new hospitals and other good works.
We were back at the ship by 4pm and contrived another load of laundry. It was very social down there as others did the same. Dinner was the usual excellent standard and we has a lively conversation with a couple from Yorkshire about favourite authors. Early departure from our cabin on Sunday but we can stay on board for lunch before taking a taxi to our hotel.
More photos from Baume
Friday 26 October 2018
Photos from Lyon 26/10
Francee: Lyon Fri 26/10
Lyon is built around the confluence of the Rhone and Saone Rivers. Bob opted for the bike expedition through part of the Old Town and down to the Confluence. The peninsular area between the rivers is the newest part of the city with some very innovative arhitecture. I am hoping we may get down there again because he enjoyed it and the Natural History Museum sounds like a "must do".
I went on a walking tour of the area that was historically developed as the silk weaving area. In the height of the industry there were 30,000 weavers working in a cottage industry development. Today there are 10. To get there we were taken through some traboules which are covered passages.They were sometimes between streets and in other examples actually wound through the gardens and courtyards of houses. They had two purposes. To save space as they used less land than roads and this is an area compressed between the Saone and the steep hillside bounding the river. But they also allowed the safe transport of silk products in wet weather. They were well used by the Resistance during WW2. There used to be 300 but some have been destroyed in the opening up of the area with real roads and others that are on private land have been locked for the owners use only. The ones we traversed were in social housing blocks where traverse is a condition of occupancy.
We then visited one of the weavers and saw him at work. They do most of their work now as special orders for buildings which are being restored. Given the fine nature of silk it takes one week to weave 1 metre of 1 metre wide cloth. We saw work on a piece which involved the more complex process of creating a velvet finish. The price was commensrate with the work so I will have to be satisfied with my Asian silk scarves even though I lusted after the exquisite patterns. From there we visited a silk screen printing premises. Today all of this is achieved with the aid of computers but they still had hefty price tags. We then had a coffee in the old town and made our way back to the ship for lunch.
After our after lunch relax we had missed the bus to the top of the cliff to visit the Basilica because Bob was snoozing. When we set off we decided to see if we could walk up there. The distance was not great but the approximately 300 steps were daunting. We took it in easy stages resting at each landing. Thereafter the lower gardens were sloping paths which was a more gentle climb. When we arrived at the top the view across the city was worth the effort but so was the Basillica itself. While admiring individual aspects of the building when looking at the fascade we couldn't help feeling that it was a bit overdone. Construction commenced next to the original chapel in 1872 as the fulfillment of a promise to St Mary because she saved the town a 3rd time. The first two occasions were when the town was spared from the plague in 1643, the second was typhoid in 1832 and the third was from war in 1870. The interior of the church has some magnificent mosaics on the ceiling and walls instead of paintings all highlighted with gold.
Walking back to the ship was easy but we did have a rest before going to dinner. There was entertainment in the bar after dinner. A very talented African American singer Julie King had everyone bopping and singing along. And so to bed.
I went on a walking tour of the area that was historically developed as the silk weaving area. In the height of the industry there were 30,000 weavers working in a cottage industry development. Today there are 10. To get there we were taken through some traboules which are covered passages.They were sometimes between streets and in other examples actually wound through the gardens and courtyards of houses. They had two purposes. To save space as they used less land than roads and this is an area compressed between the Saone and the steep hillside bounding the river. But they also allowed the safe transport of silk products in wet weather. They were well used by the Resistance during WW2. There used to be 300 but some have been destroyed in the opening up of the area with real roads and others that are on private land have been locked for the owners use only. The ones we traversed were in social housing blocks where traverse is a condition of occupancy.
We then visited one of the weavers and saw him at work. They do most of their work now as special orders for buildings which are being restored. Given the fine nature of silk it takes one week to weave 1 metre of 1 metre wide cloth. We saw work on a piece which involved the more complex process of creating a velvet finish. The price was commensrate with the work so I will have to be satisfied with my Asian silk scarves even though I lusted after the exquisite patterns. From there we visited a silk screen printing premises. Today all of this is achieved with the aid of computers but they still had hefty price tags. We then had a coffee in the old town and made our way back to the ship for lunch.
After our after lunch relax we had missed the bus to the top of the cliff to visit the Basilica because Bob was snoozing. When we set off we decided to see if we could walk up there. The distance was not great but the approximately 300 steps were daunting. We took it in easy stages resting at each landing. Thereafter the lower gardens were sloping paths which was a more gentle climb. When we arrived at the top the view across the city was worth the effort but so was the Basillica itself. While admiring individual aspects of the building when looking at the fascade we couldn't help feeling that it was a bit overdone. Construction commenced next to the original chapel in 1872 as the fulfillment of a promise to St Mary because she saved the town a 3rd time. The first two occasions were when the town was spared from the plague in 1643, the second was typhoid in 1832 and the third was from war in 1870. The interior of the church has some magnificent mosaics on the ceiling and walls instead of paintings all highlighted with gold.
Walking back to the ship was easy but we did have a rest before going to dinner. There was entertainment in the bar after dinner. A very talented African American singer Julie King had everyone bopping and singing along. And so to bed.
Thursday 25 October 2018
Photos from Tain & Tournon
France: Tournon & Tain L'HermitageThurs 25 /10
While there are two towns listed here they are immediately opposite each other across the Rhone and are also called the Twin Cities. They are independant though and apparently quite competative. We opted for a slightly different walking tour today rather than the usual town tour. It was a hike up through the the vinyards on each side of the valley. It was listed as being for fit walkers only and we were a bit uncertain at first but having listened to the preview of it we decided we could manage it. We were fine and were glad we decided to tackle it.
We walked through the very pretty town square of Tain stopping for a brief explanation of their Roman history of which they retain the Bull's Alter. This was a vessel for capturing blood from a slaughtered beast which was drunk as it flowed over the lip to take the stength of the bull. See photo. Other items were whisked off to other museums.
From there we climbed up through the vineyards which was a steep walk up a winding narrow unpaved road. Half way we stopped for an explanation of the type of vines, soil type, fertilisation and the rules controlling the earning of the Appelation Controle label. This is the standard which is applied to the grower in order for them to be able to use a particular brand for their wine. The red graped grown here are Shiraz but there are two standards of wine on this hillside. The upper level is Hermitage and there are only a few wineries which are entitled to use this name. The quality of the wine is determined by the altitude, the granitic soil, the aspect of the hillside and the rules for growing. The land is so limited it sells for millions of Euros per hectare and now very rarely changes hands. The wine sells for hundreds of Euros per bottle, mostly in the USA. The growers can only fertilise with goat manure, limit prduction to 6 bunches per vine, use no water other than from the sky, use no pesticides and hand pick . The vineyard is so steep that the grapes are carried down the hill in 60 kg baskets by strong young men called carriers who work with the pickers.
Below this area is a lesser quality of wine which is entitled to a qualified Hermitage label. We could not see any difference on the wine label when we saw one so it must just go on the buyers knowledge of the particular vineyards. This qualification of the standard is because these vines are grown closer to the river where frost is a risk and the soil type is less granitic and more river pebble residue. This area is bigger, extending along the river valley. The growers here also light kerosine fires in buckets throughout the vineyard when it is high risk nights for frost. This is not allowed in the Hermitage vineyards although the incidence of frost is less higher up the slope. This wine sells at 30E per bottle upwards and they have not yet released the 2015 vintage as it is too young. It was a very interesting walk and not over at this stage. We then walked across the bridge to Turnon and met the reprsentative of a large wine cooperative. She walked us up their hillside though not a high. Here we sipped examples of their wine and heard about the co-op and their wine. It was a thoroughly enjoyable morning. This was topped off by a visit to the local renoun chocolate factory. The afternoon was relaxation time as we sailed up river to Lyon. We had dinner with and Aussie couple from Melbourne.
We walked through the very pretty town square of Tain stopping for a brief explanation of their Roman history of which they retain the Bull's Alter. This was a vessel for capturing blood from a slaughtered beast which was drunk as it flowed over the lip to take the stength of the bull. See photo. Other items were whisked off to other museums.
From there we climbed up through the vineyards which was a steep walk up a winding narrow unpaved road. Half way we stopped for an explanation of the type of vines, soil type, fertilisation and the rules controlling the earning of the Appelation Controle label. This is the standard which is applied to the grower in order for them to be able to use a particular brand for their wine. The red graped grown here are Shiraz but there are two standards of wine on this hillside. The upper level is Hermitage and there are only a few wineries which are entitled to use this name. The quality of the wine is determined by the altitude, the granitic soil, the aspect of the hillside and the rules for growing. The land is so limited it sells for millions of Euros per hectare and now very rarely changes hands. The wine sells for hundreds of Euros per bottle, mostly in the USA. The growers can only fertilise with goat manure, limit prduction to 6 bunches per vine, use no water other than from the sky, use no pesticides and hand pick . The vineyard is so steep that the grapes are carried down the hill in 60 kg baskets by strong young men called carriers who work with the pickers.
Below this area is a lesser quality of wine which is entitled to a qualified Hermitage label. We could not see any difference on the wine label when we saw one so it must just go on the buyers knowledge of the particular vineyards. This qualification of the standard is because these vines are grown closer to the river where frost is a risk and the soil type is less granitic and more river pebble residue. This area is bigger, extending along the river valley. The growers here also light kerosine fires in buckets throughout the vineyard when it is high risk nights for frost. This is not allowed in the Hermitage vineyards although the incidence of frost is less higher up the slope. This wine sells at 30E per bottle upwards and they have not yet released the 2015 vintage as it is too young. It was a very interesting walk and not over at this stage. We then walked across the bridge to Turnon and met the reprsentative of a large wine cooperative. She walked us up their hillside though not a high. Here we sipped examples of their wine and heard about the co-op and their wine. It was a thoroughly enjoyable morning. This was topped off by a visit to the local renoun chocolate factory. The afternoon was relaxation time as we sailed up river to Lyon. We had dinner with and Aussie couple from Melbourne.
Photos from Viviers
Wednesday 24 October 2018
France : Viviers 23/ 10
This Village was an absolute delight. It is very small by French standards, about 1000 population. It has two potteries, a butcher, a baker and small store but everything else must be purchased from the nearby town. Not unlike Walpole.
We were in five groups for the walking tour and our group had 26 passengers. Our tour guide was Pierre. He was a chatty humourous slim man of approximately our age. He took us up through the narrow winding streets at a brisk pace pointing out ancient buildings and building features as we walked. Our first stop was a large churchlike building which was not concecrated as a church but was dedicated to providing support to the pilgrims who walk through the town on their way to Spain to worship at De Compestella. Pierre was delighted to have his group arrive first and seated us in the sanctuary to wait for our event; an organ recital. The organ was a tradtional instrument with huge pipes across the rear of the space and the walls were stone so once again the acoustics were excellant. The organist was a retired man with excellant credentials who had come to play for us despite having gone down the day before with a virulent flu. The music was wonderful. I sat with my eyes closed and just soaked it up. He played for half and hour and we gave him a standing ovation at the finish.
From there we gradually climbed to the cathedral which was of course on the top of a limestone cliff about 50 meters above the highest point in the village. It was huge being concecrated in 1498 but is credited with being the smallest cathedral in France. It was decorated with 5 huge tapestries one of which was given by Napoleon the Third in 1720. They measure 7 metres x4 metres and weigh 650kg each. Three were inexplicably stolen in 1974 and only 2 were found in a cave in Italy in 1982 and returned. There were only 4 present as one is in Paris for renovation which will take five years. The parishoners are worried that it will not be returned. For the same reason they sabotage the authority's inspections of the organ (installed 1841) by playng pieces that they know will not reveal it's gradual decline. They are very grateful that the allies bombs missed both the bridge and the cathedral in 1944.
The congregaton has gradually declined and many years ago the huge Bishop's Palace was uneconomic so the bishop approached the Mayor for help. The solution was to swap buildings so when we went to the Town Hall we were visiting the original Bishop's Palace. It is large enough that one wing is now the primary school. Pierre took us to a beautifully decorated room now used for weddings. Here he told us he had a surprised for us. He introduced us to a very attractive woman who has been his dance partner for 50 years. They have competed at National level and he said they were going to perform five dances which showed the history of dance in France since 1944. They danced beautifully and performed the French Walsz, The Java, the Tango, the one which imitates a bull fight and was the feature of "Strictly Bballroom" but which I can't remember and then Rock & Roll. It was amazing and fun. We were then served a glass of sparkling apple drink which is a local tradition. And walked back to the boat still talking about the dance and the dancers.
We discovered each group had had different entertainment from visiting the potteries to wine tasting. We thought we had the best deal but so did every group. It was a really creative way for a small town to show off it's resources when there were no souvenier shops to attract visitors. In the afternoon we passed through the largest lock on the river. It is 150 metres long and very deep.
And so ends another page.
We were in five groups for the walking tour and our group had 26 passengers. Our tour guide was Pierre. He was a chatty humourous slim man of approximately our age. He took us up through the narrow winding streets at a brisk pace pointing out ancient buildings and building features as we walked. Our first stop was a large churchlike building which was not concecrated as a church but was dedicated to providing support to the pilgrims who walk through the town on their way to Spain to worship at De Compestella. Pierre was delighted to have his group arrive first and seated us in the sanctuary to wait for our event; an organ recital. The organ was a tradtional instrument with huge pipes across the rear of the space and the walls were stone so once again the acoustics were excellant. The organist was a retired man with excellant credentials who had come to play for us despite having gone down the day before with a virulent flu. The music was wonderful. I sat with my eyes closed and just soaked it up. He played for half and hour and we gave him a standing ovation at the finish.
From there we gradually climbed to the cathedral which was of course on the top of a limestone cliff about 50 meters above the highest point in the village. It was huge being concecrated in 1498 but is credited with being the smallest cathedral in France. It was decorated with 5 huge tapestries one of which was given by Napoleon the Third in 1720. They measure 7 metres x4 metres and weigh 650kg each. Three were inexplicably stolen in 1974 and only 2 were found in a cave in Italy in 1982 and returned. There were only 4 present as one is in Paris for renovation which will take five years. The parishoners are worried that it will not be returned. For the same reason they sabotage the authority's inspections of the organ (installed 1841) by playng pieces that they know will not reveal it's gradual decline. They are very grateful that the allies bombs missed both the bridge and the cathedral in 1944.
The congregaton has gradually declined and many years ago the huge Bishop's Palace was uneconomic so the bishop approached the Mayor for help. The solution was to swap buildings so when we went to the Town Hall we were visiting the original Bishop's Palace. It is large enough that one wing is now the primary school. Pierre took us to a beautifully decorated room now used for weddings. Here he told us he had a surprised for us. He introduced us to a very attractive woman who has been his dance partner for 50 years. They have competed at National level and he said they were going to perform five dances which showed the history of dance in France since 1944. They danced beautifully and performed the French Walsz, The Java, the Tango, the one which imitates a bull fight and was the feature of "Strictly Bballroom" but which I can't remember and then Rock & Roll. It was amazing and fun. We were then served a glass of sparkling apple drink which is a local tradition. And walked back to the boat still talking about the dance and the dancers.
We discovered each group had had different entertainment from visiting the potteries to wine tasting. We thought we had the best deal but so did every group. It was a really creative way for a small town to show off it's resources when there were no souvenier shops to attract visitors. In the afternoon we passed through the largest lock on the river. It is 150 metres long and very deep.
And so ends another page.
France: Avignon 23/10
This old city has the most intact city wall of any we have visited. This is partly because of the Rhone's propensity to have devestating floods in times past. The wall defended against the wild water that could come with the snow melt from the Alps. It has been tamed now but the wall has other value as a tourist attraction. We couldn't believe our ears when a woman had to ask what the wall was. Travel can definately be educational.
Our walking tour today took us through town to a beautiful covered market. Actually it was the contents which were beautiful. There is a strange torment about walking down aisles of food that there is no point in buying. Especially when there is more than enough tempting food waiting for you back at the ship. We can perhaps make up for it during our stay in Lyon.
The focus of the walk was the Pope's Palace. This was commenced in the early 1300s when there was turbulent times in Rome and a French Pope was elected for the first time. It grew in size and power as each French Pope naturally stacked the Cardinals Collegiate with more Frenchmen. The French lasted about 1000 years until control was wrested back by the Italians.
The Palace is huge because the Popes were wealthy and each enlarged and improved the building. One of our companions on the walk had their Iphone working and informed us we had walked 3.5 miles during the 3 hours we were in a small area of the town. The murals in the Pope's bedroom and study were intact and were quite beautiful. Unfortunately we were not allowed to photograph them. I have put a computer representation of the great hall in the photos because it gives an idea of the colours. Quite a bit of the Palace was damaged by fire back in the time of candles but has been restored over the years. Once the Palace was no longer useful to the church it was taken over by the state and for many years housed soldiers who also inflicted some damage.
The cathedral was also beautiful but I think you have enough photos of churches for a while.
In the afternoon we walked up to the orginal Bridge of Avignon and listened to an audio tape of it's history as we walked up to the point where it vanishes. It was also a middle ages construction and the river finally destroyed it at it's most vulnerable section. We then walked into the town square where an Italian Trade Fair was just setting up. I bought myself a nice Italian leather belt much cheaper than any I had seen elsewhere or in Perth. You can see their sales tents in one of the photos.
Lamb for dinner and it was delicous.
Our walking tour today took us through town to a beautiful covered market. Actually it was the contents which were beautiful. There is a strange torment about walking down aisles of food that there is no point in buying. Especially when there is more than enough tempting food waiting for you back at the ship. We can perhaps make up for it during our stay in Lyon.
The focus of the walk was the Pope's Palace. This was commenced in the early 1300s when there was turbulent times in Rome and a French Pope was elected for the first time. It grew in size and power as each French Pope naturally stacked the Cardinals Collegiate with more Frenchmen. The French lasted about 1000 years until control was wrested back by the Italians.
The Palace is huge because the Popes were wealthy and each enlarged and improved the building. One of our companions on the walk had their Iphone working and informed us we had walked 3.5 miles during the 3 hours we were in a small area of the town. The murals in the Pope's bedroom and study were intact and were quite beautiful. Unfortunately we were not allowed to photograph them. I have put a computer representation of the great hall in the photos because it gives an idea of the colours. Quite a bit of the Palace was damaged by fire back in the time of candles but has been restored over the years. Once the Palace was no longer useful to the church it was taken over by the state and for many years housed soldiers who also inflicted some damage.
The cathedral was also beautiful but I think you have enough photos of churches for a while.
In the afternoon we walked up to the orginal Bridge of Avignon and listened to an audio tape of it's history as we walked up to the point where it vanishes. It was also a middle ages construction and the river finally destroyed it at it's most vulnerable section. We then walked into the town square where an Italian Trade Fair was just setting up. I bought myself a nice Italian leather belt much cheaper than any I had seen elsewhere or in Perth. You can see their sales tents in one of the photos.
Lamb for dinner and it was delicous.
Photos of Avignon
Computer presentation of that the hall may have looked like.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)