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| These magnificent trees are Cedars. |
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| The largest of these Koi were at least a metre long. |
Friday, 22 July 2022
The English Garden
22nd July Germany
We set off at about 9-30 this morning and went out to a nearby Nursery with a beautiful English Garden. It as called Ettenbuhl -just in case you can find it on Google. Maria and I had a lovely time and Bob found it interesting I think. Roland would rather have been getting on with the day but he coped.
From there we went on to Lorrah which was probably a town worthy of exploring in it's own right but our focus was shopping. Germany is cheaper than Switzerland for pretty well everything. We lucked on to a department store having a major sale and found bargains with the things we were looking for.
Roland then drove us home through the Black Forest. The plan included a stop at Titisee which is a beautiful lake that has been well developed for holiday makers. .However it is now school holidays in Germany and there wasn't a parkimg space anywhere. There was no temptation to park illegally when we spotted a policeman moving in to deIiver fines.
We ar now back in Bulach with a busy last day ahead of us as we pack up and get ready to board the plane home on Sunday. So apart from some photos it is over and out for this trip. Gail
Along The Doub
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21 July River Doud then Germany
We began the day driving alongside the river on unmade road. Just a bit pot wholy and very pretty. A few kms along things came to an abrupt halt with a tree across the road. It had obviously blown down in the previous nights storm. The road was very narrow so Roland had to reverse for about 500 metres back to a turning area. Maria and I walked back ahead of the Jeep and as we went we found dozens of tiny frogs hopping across the road.They were really cute and just like the ones I used to find in the garden at the farm.
We were travelling through rural land again and saw a deer foraging in a mowed paddock then some storks feeding on ploughed land. We stopped at an ancient town named Ferrette and I don't know if there is any connection to the four legged ones or what the name actually means. It was quite delightful with fountains all through. They were mostly long toughs designed to make collecting water easy in the days before piped water. There was a notice forbidding housewives to do their washing in the drinking troughs and go to the laundry specific one.
There is a typical stone bridge with a statue of the towns patron saint whose name was difficult to remember so of course I have forgotten it. I do remember that in the 13 Century he was thrown in the river by King Wensalus and drowned because he would not betray the secrets of the confessional. We have always been told that Wensalus was a good guy. He must have had a good PR team.
As we progressed we went in and out of France a few times and then on to Bad Belingen in Germany for an overnight stay. 3 countries in one day. Our hotel was one M & R had stayed in before. Omce we had settled in Bob and I went for a walk. We found the park just down the hill from the hotel. Maria had told us it had a mini golf course. We weren't looking for it particularly but when we did we were most impressed. It was 18 holes and most of them presented a challenge. I was most gobsmacked by the one where you had to hit through a rotating waterwheel. Putting through consecutive wine barrels where the holes would have just about accommodated a mouse was another. All of them had sneaky slopes guaranteed to send your ball into the never never.
Dinner was very enjoyable. For the first time Bob and I chose the fish on offer. It was just what we hoped and we enjoyed it. There had been no way we would have chosen the steamed trout the previous evening once we saw it being served to other patrons.
Wednesday, 20 July 2022
Wed 20th July River Doubs
This days plam was to follow the Swiss French Border along the River as closely as possible . This took us through wider shallower valleys with more extemsive farmimg land at times. In between we were in the historic Doub Park adjacent to the River. Initially the River was a sad spectre as it was almost completely dry. Boat hire and cruises were impossible and restaurants which rely on this activity were closed.
Our first stop was in Coldesroches to visit a ancient and very unique mill. Back in the 17th C the local people were hampered by the lack of a river to provide water power for a mill. Then the discovery that their river was underground and travelled through a cave system changed everything. Innovative locals built a grain mill down in the caves to access the power. Over time the mill was taken over and enlarged by financiers until it was operating several waterwheels of great size and powering a flour mill and a saw mill. Needless to say the conditions of work were pretty grim especially because the temperature down in the caves is a steady 7C and all the work for maintenance and expansion was done in what we now consider to be highly dangerous conditions.
Forewarned we had our jumpers on and went down through the very well set out tour but a group of young people from a holiday camp shivered their way through at much faster progress. It was really incredible to see the way in which people had managed to create such a major industry in such a difficult environment.
We had lunch at a restaurant on the bank of the Doub and then wound our way through the Park. We stopped at a beautiful hotel restaurant tucked into a narrow part of the valley. Maria had hoped to book us into the hotel but it was closed for the day. Instead we took photos and moved on. A slight detour took us to a huge stable complex set up to rescue old horses. It was very well organised and each stall had the name and birth year of its usual occupant. Most were out in the feed area but Bob found the sleeping place of a 36 Y O.
The weather had become increasingly thunderery and right on the French Swiss border we found the Hotel du Doub. We were just unloading our luggage from the Jeep when the rain and hail arrived. It was impressive but fairly shortlived. There was an impressive riverside covered terrace for dinner and the temperature was mild so we had a meal of local specialties in a convivial atmosphere. We passed up the frogs legs.
20 th July La Rasses Hotel
Yesterday we had settled in to this Grand Hotel. It was "The Scene" in the 1950's where all the beautiful people holidayed and was the setting for a movie. Our room has photos from the highlights on the walls. It is very comfortable and well maintained. We had dinner here the night was arrived and the food was good and being in the French area had a different flavour. Yesterday we saw some varied places. First up we went to The Grand Canyon of Switzerland. It is very unexpected. We walked up a grassy field to the edge of a cliff and it opened up before us. Not a warning sign or a safety rail in sight. Not quite as big as the American version but still impressive. The upper reaches are the limestine shist we have seen elsewhere forming the cliff edges and below that the sandstone foundation has been eroded over time to give it great depth.
From there we visited a ancient asphalte mine. This was solidified by pressure underground and mined like coal with huge tunnels where horses dragged the trucks of ore to the surface. The asphalte was sold all over the world for road surfaces prior to it's closure in 1996. The area is also famous for the local specialty drink Absynth. This is a herbal fermented drink which can be as high at 77% alcohol. Roland had some as an afterdinner "digestive" last night. There are at least 70 different labels to chose from.
We then had lunch at a little cafe in La Brevine which is Switzerland's coldest town with a record 42C minus temp. It was warm yerteday at 30 C but it can also go up to 40C plus. It is a prety little town but you obviously need to be a special breed to live there. Our lunch was delicous. Bob's version of my cold has turned into a very sore throat so he had cold tomato Gaspacho soup and enjoyed it. It was made on the premises and not from Mr Heinz.
We then all voted for a return to the hotel for a nap followed by a swim in the very nice indoor pool. I am glad that my decision to pack my bathers has been vindicated. Bob opted out which the family will know was to be expected.
Dinner last night was at The French Hotel in St. Criox which is just down the road. It was a lovely meal and very relaxed in pleasant uncrowded atmosphere. M & R have it marked for future attention when they are back this way.
Tuesday, 19 July 2022
Mon 18th july - French Region of Switzerland
We set off for the Mid West along a couple of major lakes. Our first stop was a small villlage in which we could have sworn we were over the border in France. Twann is perched between the lake and the limestone schist scarp. Vineyards are squeezed mostly above the town in terraces reinforced by stone walls. Some are close to the housing on a lIttle area of level ground. Away from the houses to the West there is a steep valley area which is thoroughly utilised. I don't doubt that the grapes have to be hand picked.
The town itself is delightful. A narrow street the meanders with the terrain built in the classic multi storied style that the space imposes.
From there we drove up to Chasseral where a hotel is perched at 1609 metres. There were lots of bikes , with and without motors and some hardy souls who were using their legs. A quick lunch and a stroll to the lookout and we were on our way.
From here we were following the Route de Vignoble so you can imagine that it was picturesque btween forest and vinyards. We found some Scottish Highland cattle along the way and occasionally I saw horses. We stopped off at the Chateau Vaumarcus which is a massive structure obviously intended to be impregnable when it was constructed. We were hoping for an iced coffee or icecream but unfortunately it was closed.
More ubout our hotel accommodation later.
Sunday, 17 July 2022
Sunday 17th July Bulach - Tossegg
Yesterday afternoon Maria and Roland took us for a drive to Tossegg on the Rhine River. We went via very narrow, one vehicle sealed roads through farming lands. It was a beautiful meandering trail around individual farms. Enroute we saw a crop of wheat being harvested by a huge machine going up and down a field of about two hectares. The machine heads and discharges straw in it's wake. We often see such small areas being hand raked prior to baling. The loose straw or hay is then often loaded onto trucks and taken to a commmunity baling facility. On this occassion I think the machinery was undoubtedly a contractor.
When we arrived at the river the name of the location became evident by the descriptive map. Toss is the name of a smaller river which juntions with the Rhine and egg is the word for corner. There is a distinct bend in the Rhine at this junction which I think is caused by the force of water and sediment from the Toss pushing out into the Rhine over time and eroding the far bank. This is my theory based on observation only. It is important to know that the pronunciation of Toss bears no resemblance to the spelling.
The scene there was idylic even if there is no sand beach. People were out on the water on every sort of floating device. The arrangement is that they launch quite a bit further up stream from this corner and drift down with the gently flowing water. They almost always seemed to link up two or more floats and there was quite a party atmosphere on some with drinks and music. The water is a beautiful light aqua and clear to the bottom where it is shallow enough to see the bottom.
No outing with Maria is undertaken without a walk. The length of the walk has become a standing joke between her and Bob because her estimates are sometimes short of the reality. Today the River bank walk was generously shaded by the trees which grow down to the waterline. The path was fairly rough and very up and down. It was beautiful walking and watching the array of watercraft. We did not see any beavers although this is an ackowledged habitat. Frankly it would have been amazing if any critter was silly enough to poke it's head out with all the activity and noise. The return trip was a comfortable three kms and then Finn got to have his swim. My feet were cooled in the Rhine but that was all that were wet.
For dinner Maria and Roland prepared Raclette which is a traditional meal of grilled cheese served with small sausages and various pickles. After dinner M & R filled us in on their proposal for the coming week. Today we are going to see Erich and Caterina and taking Finn to catch up with his Dad. Tomorrow we set off for the French part of Switzerland to the the MidWest. Home of the Jura Alps and a wine region around Lake Neuchatel. This will be for approximately 3 nights and on the way home we may well go into Germany for some shopping we have in mind.
So more to follow.
Saturday, 16 July 2022
Sat 16th July Horw to Bulach
Yesterday was our last day in Erich and Caterina's apartment as they are home today. So it was clean the apartment and pack up. We left them vouchers for two of the local supermarkets as a thank you for their generosity.
We had an uneventful drive home except for a bit of a hold up caused by road work. Maria went shopping and came back with the ingredients for a special dinner. Clams cooked in white wine with spagetti. She bought the clams from the local supermarket fish counter and they were small, more like the size of our cockles but with a distinct fine shell almost like a small mussel. It was new to us but quite delicious.
After dinner Maria was planning to go to their community garden plot to water and pick the produce. We all went including Finn who is staying with us until he can connect with his Dad when we go back to Horw for a visit tomorrow.
It was just before 9pm when we set off on the 4 km round trip walking. It was still quite light due to the long twilight here. By the time we had watered and picked it was 10pm when we arrived home and a bit darker but still light enough to see clearly as we were walking.
Today will be a relaxed day. Bob has gone for a walk to the shops. I have been doing a bit of ironing. We did the washing last night and hung ours in the courtyard. Because it is so warm here at the moment it dried overnight just as it would at home.
Friday, 15 July 2022
14th July Grindelwald
In terms of mountain resorts Maria and Roland saved the best till last. Grindelwald is the pre eminant Summer/ Winter Resort. Nestled in a huge valley at the foot of the Eiger and Jungfrau Mts it is dominated by these giants and their glaciers. We had a busy snapping time because everytime we turned around there was another shot we just had to take. Once we arrived at the central resort area we settled down to a traditional lunch of pork sausage and potato salad. Maria sneakily just ordered the salad because she was sure one of us would have some sausage to share. She was right and even after sharing some of the sausage with her I still couldn't eat all my potato.
We then set off on a 5km walk mostly downhill fortunately. Maria had expertly planned the trek so that we were not pushing up hill like lots of other puffing walkers. Along the way we were intermittantly entertained by a Swiss Horn player who was carrying his horn from promentory to promentory and playing a solo at each spot. I think it was for his own satisfaction but the walkers all enjoyed his performances.
Our destination was Kleiner Scheidegg (2061 metres) which is a relatively low hill, compared to all the surroundings. This is special because it is the origins of Roland's family. It was also the departure station for our train trip back to the huge cable car station where Roland's Jeep was parked.
Next stop was a walk around the Old Town in Interlaken. This city is named for it's location between two large lakes. It was pleasant strolling around in the early evening cool. We found a Pizzieria and had a typically Italian meal. Maria and Roland chose local specialities but Bob and I opted for the safer pasta options. One unusual sight we came upon by the river was a couple who had a string of 6 Llamas hitched to the railings. They were packing up to go home as we arrived so I can only assume it was a promo for trecking.
Then it was home to Horw for a shower and bed. It was still warm as we have had a succession of 30 degree C days but we still slept well after an energetic day.
Wednesday, 13 July 2022
Photos from Devils Bridge
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| This is the progress of our walk startimg on the lower bridge Ll |
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13th July Mountain Country.
Today we set off for the "Hills" with our efficient touring team. Maria was plotting the course, in consultation with Roland and Roland was behind the wheel. We left town via a 10km long tunnel which was quite amazing. Our first destination was the town which claims William Tell as a resident. There is a very impressive monument apart from a restaurant named for him. Of course the sun was coming from the wrong direction but I have done my best with the photo
From there R & M had decided that we would take the old road to the uplands as it is more interesting. Their decision was vindicated soon after we began again when there was advice of a traffic jam on the autobahn. School holidays and American tour buses etc. Our first stop was The Devil's Bridge. This was interesting for a number of reasons. Firstly it was the site of a five year long battle between Napolian's troups and the Russian army. There is a large memorial to the Russians but nothing for the French. Again the situation didn't make for a decent photo. The reason things dragged on for so long was the difficulty of the site. It has a very steep and deep chasum filled with rushing icy water.Very beautiful but difficult to navigate.
The story goes that the locals decided they really needed a bridge but a meeting of the decision makers from either side couldn't work out how to build it. In frustration one of the leaders stated that they should leave it to the devil. Duly summoned he offered to build it. The price would be the first to cross the bridge. When the day came the locals cannily sent a goat across. The devil was furious and picked up a huge rock to smash the bridge. Then an old lady approached the devil and expressed concern at how hot and sweaty he was getting. She persuaded him to take a rest and put the rock down. While he was resting she quietly went around the other side of the rock and painted a cross on it. When the devil picked the rock up and it rotated in the process he saw the cross and screamed with rage and stormed away.
A substantial stone bridge was built in 1939 and replaced by a wider one in 1956. The old bridge is part of a circuit walk trail which includes a tunnel through the rocks. The tunnel was part of an extensive military defensive development which includes numerous caves to store equipment ready for any eventuality.
We took the walk which was about half an hour. We then went on the the upper pastures which gave us a good view of the snow fields. A picnic lunch by the side of the road gave us lots of opportunity for photographs. We then continued climbing up to the Pass. It was a very hairpin road though good condition. Lots of motor bikes again and more cars on the road in the afternoon. We stopped for coffee, a marmot park where we saw one apart from the one sprinting across the pasture.
In all the road was up and down mountains and we crossed three Passes. We also stopped in Mieringen to buy the town's specialty desert. Meranges which were delicious for desert with strawberries and icecream.
12th July Luzern
This was a quieter day . Maria came back from Bulach by train because Roland had to stay for the day to sort out an issue with their camper wheels. We met Maria in Luzern. We arrived a bit before her as she had to go in to Zurich and catch the Luzern train from there. We took a wander around the city centre area finding a nice park full of mums and kinder and workers eating their lunch. We ended up back on the riverside near to the covered bridge and just a stones throw from the station - after one back track.
When Maria arrived she had a plan for the day. This involved a ferry trip across the lake in one of the new catamaran style ferries. The lake was smooth and the only ripples were caused by crossing the wake of other ferries. Our destination was Burgenstock Resort. The ferry delivered us to the base of a high cliff. From there we went by cable car up the steepest ascent we have encountered yet. It was approximatlely 900metres in height but straight up .Others we have been on were longer but with a more gentle incline. The resort at the top was for rich people only. The restaurant was closed by the time we arrived. We could have taken a half hour walk across to a takeaway food outlet. However I was brewing a cold by then and not feeling up to walking up hill. We finally decided to return to Luzern and had a picnic beside the harbour. From there it was home to pizza for dinner once Roland arrived. This morning I have done my second RAT and both have been clear thank goodness.
Tuesday, 12 July 2022
More photos of Bern
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Photos from Bern
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| View from the Bear Park across to the city. |
A couple of shots of the buildings of the Old Towm main Street.
Monday Bern
Sorry, I don't know how the font size changed and I can't get it to revert to the larger size.
Yesterday was another beautiful day. There was a slight breeze in Bern but it is forecast to get hotter as the week progresses.
As sometimes happens when a city has been promoted by everyone I was slightly disappointed when we arrived in Bern. It is the Swiss capital city and as such much historical effort was put into making it's buildings grander than anywhere else. Hence the Old Town is built up massively but it is all grey stone. To me the first impression was dullness. However the locals must have realised that it needed some colour so there are flags and fountains right down the main street.
As we moved around the city we discovered the flowers and the riverside terraces and this initial impact was softened; for me at least. There was not the overwhelming presence of tourists that there had been in Luzern on Sunday so although they were there it was more relaxed. We had a pleasant light lunch and explored the tourist shops a little but did not find anything different to anywhere else except the inserted word "Bern".
We then ventured over the river to the Bear Park. This is a recently developed riverside forested enclosure complete with a riverside swimming pool. It replaces a much older typical zoo type concrete pit which would have been abysmal. We were lucky to arrive shortly before bear lunchtime so just when we thought they had retreated for nap time they got wind of the bucket of fruit and came hurrying out. There are three healthy looking bears. Mumma, Pappa and baby bear. The baby daughter is actually about 3 years old and is nearly as big as her parents.
We swung left on the return trip to view the Minster and the riverside terraces. Well planted and treed with cafe's for ice creams and drinks. Very relaxing. Even the Parliament building has a terrace with chess games and the visitors access to the building - if you have the requisite pass.
We ambled back to the Barnhoff and timed it nicely for our train. Pasta for dinner just down the road. The Carbonara was a bit too strongly flavoured with cheese for my taste. I prefer Ingrid's version.
Sunday, 10 July 2022
Photos from Glacier Park
Model of a glacier pit. Gives the impression better than my photos of the actual pits.
Photos from Sunday
As much of the William Tell as I could fit in from wharfside vantage.
Sunday 10th July Luzern
Today Maria and Roland planned to return to Bulach because they have a tennis match to play tomorrow. However Maria planned a full days activities before they left after dinner. Last night we went into Luzern to a Brewery which has a restaurant set up with a Traditional Music show for the tourists. We were a party of 7 because Lea and Michael and one of their friends came too. We had grandstand seats on a low mezzanine floor as the ground level area was packed with mostly American tour groups. It was a good night with very professional entertainers. They should be because they perform every night during the summer season and sometimes do two daytime performances a well. The meal was also of a good standard.
We had a relaxed start this morning after our late night. Maria then buzzed around cleaning the floors and loading the dishwasher etc as she can't leave things for us to do. We are allowed to look after the cats at least. We then went for a walk in the opposite direction to our previous walks and discovered that the lake is bordered by an attractive wetland area. Saw ducks and a couple of other birds we hadn't seen before.
We then caught the train into Luzern. By then it was lunchtime and Maria had a particular restaurant recommended. However it was closed so we ate on the William Tell. This is a huge paddle steamer now permanently moored at the wharf. It was built before 1910 and provided gracious dining (real white tablecloths & serviettes ) with reasonable meals even though it is obviously catering for tourists. Very pleasant.
From there we went to Glacier Park. This area incorporates a magnificent statue of a wounded lion. It was created as a monument to the hundreds of Swiss Guards who lost their lives defending the royal family during the French Revolution. From there we climbed a short aproach to the Glacier Park proper. This was created initially by a Swiss merchant who wished to build a brewery on an area bounded by limestone caste . An archaelologist was influential in persuading him that the evidence of glacier activity on the site was too important to destroy. It has been developed significantly to give a very realostic experience of what life was like in glacier land. It also has a labyrinth created with mirrors which was great fun.
We came back to a light dinner and Maria and Roland have departed for home. Tomorrow we are catching the train in to explore Bern which is reported to be quite beautiful.
Friday, 8 July 2022
SAT 9TH July
Yesterday was a quieter day. Bob and I walked caught the bus over to the Pilatus Market which is a three story shopping centre and milti story car park. It was fairly quiet and we had a leisurely stroll arpind lookimg at all the "on Sale " offerings. I hadm't packed any shorts as I was uncertaiim how appropriate they woild be so I fpumd a pair of below knee semi capris for half price.
In the afternoon we watched Djokovich play Norrie im the semii fimals of Wimbleton. We have also seen both of Kirious's games where he surprised us by playing well and being fairly polte. The games are late afternoon so it is no difficulty to watch them.
We had a steak and salad dinner and then Maria suggested a waK down to the Lake. It was 9pm when we set off but still light although my camera had to be tricked into taking shots. There were still a lot of people out walking like us and families at the lakeside. W
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e even saw some hardy souls going for a swim.
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