Wednesday 20 July 2022

Wed 20th July River Doubs

This days plam was to follow the Swiss French Border along the River as closely as possible . This took us through wider shallower valleys with more extemsive farmimg land at times. In between we were in the historic Doub Park adjacent to the River. Initially the River was a sad spectre as it was almost completely dry. Boat hire and cruises were impossible and restaurants which rely on this activity were closed.

Our first stop was in Coldesroches to visit a ancient and very unique mill. Back in the 17th C the local people were hampered by the lack of a river to provide water power for a mill. Then the discovery that their river was underground and travelled through a cave system changed everything. Innovative locals built a grain mill down in the caves to access the power. Over time the mill was taken over and enlarged by financiers until it was operating several waterwheels of great size and powering a flour mill and a saw mill. Needless to say the conditions of work were pretty grim especially because the temperature down in the caves is a steady 7C and all the work for maintenance and expansion was done in what we now consider to be highly dangerous conditions.

Forewarned we had our jumpers on and went down through the very well set out tour but a group of young people from a holiday camp shivered their way through at much faster progress. It was really incredible to see the way in which people had managed to create such a major industry in such a difficult environment.

We had lunch at a restaurant on the bank of the Doub and then wound our way through the Park. We stopped at a beautiful hotel restaurant tucked into a narrow part of the valley. Maria had hoped to book us into the hotel but it was closed for the day. Instead we took photos and moved on. A slight detour took us to a huge stable complex  set up to rescue old horses. It was very well organised and each stall had the name and birth year of its usual occupant. Most were out in the feed area but Bob found  the sleeping place of a 36 Y O.

The weather had become increasingly thunderery and right on the French Swiss border we found the Hotel du Doub. We were just unloading our luggage from the Jeep when the rain and hail arrived. It was impressive but fairly shortlived.  There was an impressive riverside covered terrace for dinner and the temperature was mild so we had a meal of local specialties in a convivial atmosphere. We passed up the frogs legs.

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